Jamon, here we come / Jamon, estamos chegando!

By , October 11, 2010

We are headed to Spain for 15 days to immerse ourselves in all things Jamon. Jamon is salt-cured ham. It sounds simple, but to produce a flavorful ham cured only in salt and essentially eaten raw takes time and practice. The Spanish have been curing hams for centuries. Their process depends upon the right breed of pig fed on right kinds of foods. It also depends upon patience.

On our farm we have pigs and plenty of patience. We also have questions about curing hams. Many of them. And who better to answer these questions than the masters themselves, the Spanish jamoneiros. During our first days in Spain, our guide will be an expert named Bosco (the brother-in-law of a friend) who will take us to ham-producing regions like Huelva, Jabugo, and Salamanca. Below is a map of traditional Jamon-producing regions.

Our hopes for the trip are high. We’d like to see some acorn-fed Iberico pigs. We’d like to unravel the mystery of mold: what kinds are good? What kinds of mold are dangerous or hallucinogens or both? We’d like to understand what makes the shoulder cure differently from the leg. We’d like to see a pig “sacrifice” as the Spanish call it. And we’d like to eat some great ham.

Since we are on a quest (hopefully not a quixotic one), I hope to meet one of my new idols in the food world, a Spanish farmer named Eduardo Sousa. He raises geese and creates humane foie-gras. He lives for his geese, he listens to them, he cares for them and loves them. And in honor of his geese he creates great food. Here’s a TED video where Chef Dan Barber talks about Sousa.

I probably won’t post while we are away, but there will be many posts when we return from our Jamon quest.

Agora em Português:
Estamos indo para a Espanha por 15 dias para mergulhar em todas as coisas relacionadas a Jamon. Jamon é presunto curado no sal. Parece simples, mas para produzir um bom presunto curado apenas com sal e comido cru, leva tempo e prática. Os espanhóis tem curado presuntos para séculos. Seu processo depende da raça do porco e a sua alimentção. Também depende de sal e paciência.

Nós também temos porcos e muita paciência. E, alem disso, temos muitas perguntas. E quem seria melhor para responder a estas perguntas de que os próprios mestres (chamados jamoneiros em espanhol). Durante nossos primeiros dias em Espanha, nosso guia será um mestre chamado Bosco (o cunhado de um amigo) que nos levará para as regiões produtoras como Huelva, Jabugo e Salamanca. Abaixo está um mapa de regiões produtoras de Jamon na Espanha.

Nossas esperanças para a viagem são grandes. Nós gostaríamos de ver alguns suínos alimentados com bolota Iberico. Nós gostaríamos de descobrir o mistério do fungo: que tipos são bons? Que tipos de fungos são perigosas ou alucinógenos? Gostaríamos de entender o que faz a pá cura de forma diferente do pernil. E nós gostaríamos de comer presunto, claro!

Quando estamos em nossa busca espero encontrar um dos meus ídolos no mundo gastronomico, um fazendeiro espanhol chamado Eduardo Sousa. Ele cria gansos e faz foie-gras. Ele vive por seus gansos. E, em homenagem ao seu gansos, Sr. Sousa cria comida boa e saudavel. Aqui está um vídeo onde o chef americano Dan Barber fala de Sousa.

Eu provavelmente não vou escrever no blog quando estamos na Espanha, mas escreverá muitos posts quando voltamos da nossa busca Jamonica!

Great Video by Suriya and Cynthia

By , October 8, 2010

Seventh grader Suriya K. recently contacted me. Suriya is a web designer and filmmaker. She and her friend Cynthia made a very informative public service announcement about global warming. I tried to embed the video into the blog, but no luck. (Suriya, maybe you can help an old technophobe like me out?) But the video is available on Suriya’s site. Check it out!

It’s Election Day in Brazil.

By , October 3, 2010

A 2004 Political Rally in Taquaritinga do Norte, PE

There’s a popular story in northeast Brazil’s political folklore: back in the 1950’s, a powerful Brazilian landowner named Colonel Chico wanted to rig local elections. He distributed ballots that had already been filled out and instructed farm workers to slip them into the voting box. “But, who am I voting for?” one worker asked. “Can’t tell you,” the Colonel replied. “It’s a secret ballot.”
On October 3, millions of Brazilian voters will use electronic voting machines to elect their president, senators, and state representatives. Brazil’s electronic voting machines are called urnas, a reference to a time not so long ago when paper ballots were deposited into urns. The electronic urnas are portable voting machines designed by the Brazilian government and manufactured by Diebold Election Systems. Unlike the United States, where voting procedures vary widely from district to district, Brazil’s procedures are federally standardized by the Tribunal Eleitoral, a branch of the justice department created solely to implement and regulate elections.

In 2004, during the nationwide election for mayors and city council members, I interviewed mayoral candidates, voters, and other election officials from Taquaritinga do Norte, Pernambuco. Taquaritinga is a rural town in northeast Brazil, where our farm is located. 2004 was only the second election that electronic urnas were used in all Brazilian cities.

“God forbid we use a system other than the electronic urna,” said 2004 mayoral candidate José Pereira Coelho. Coelho, the son of a shoemaker, was running for reelection in Taquaritinga do Norte, In 2000, the first year electronic urnas were used in local elections, Coelho won an upset victory against the PFL party, which had dominated local politics for 112 years. “The elections here are very, very close,” Coelho said while eating a plate of chicken and rice at a supporter’s home. “The electronic urna is the security that all Brazilians needed to guarantee our votes.”

The former mayor, Janio Arruda da Silva, once again Coelho’s opponent in the 2004 election, had no complaints about the urnas either. “The electoral process here is lengthy,” Silva said. “The campaign itself lasts many months. But a positive point is the electronic urna, which gives results instantly.” Silva looked at his cell phone and let it ring while his wife rushed to answer their home phone. Their house’s shutters were drawn and it’s front gate closed. “If people knew I was home,” Silva said quietly. “There would be a line outside my door.”

Before the 2004 mayoral election, each candidate had a loyal following. Coelho’s supporters, backed by a coalition of ten different political parties, are known as the calabars, or “traitors,” a reference to toppling the former, 112-year-old regime. Silva’s supporters call themselves the boca pretas, or “black mouths,” a name which comes from a local superstition that a catching grasshopper with a black mouth means good luck. The candidates also had official campaign colors—Coelho’s was red, Silva’s was blue. The municipality of Taquaritinga do Norte covers over 450 square kilometers of land with voters scattered across small townships and farms. The majority of Silva and Coelho’s 2004 constituency was made up of farmers, day laborers, and textile workers earning the Brazilian minimum wage which, at the time, was approximately $85 dollars a month. Many constituents could not read or write. Most did not have phone lines and had never accessed the internet. (In 2010 this has changed significantly thanks to inexpensive cell phones and internet cafés.)

Voting is mandatory in Brazil. All citizens between the ages of 18 and 70 must register with the Tribunal Eleitoral and appear at the voting center on Election Day. If a citizen is continuously absent from the voting process, that person cannot hold public office, cannot enter competitions to become teachers, judges or district attorneys, cannot attend a federal university, and cannot take out a bank loan in a federal institution. The law permits that, once in the voting booth, you may annul your vote or vote in blank. “A blank vote says you prefer not to vote. A null vote says you don’t like either candidate,” explained Taquaritinga’s chief judge, the Honorable Lauro Pedro dos Santos Murilo, a young man in his mid-thirties. “Those are two very different things.” His voice echoed in his chambers, a massive white room with a desk, a crucifix, and a view of Taquaritinga’s mountainside. “Whether the vote is optional or obligatory, what’s certain is that the vote ensures the growth of democratic institutions.”

With electronic voting machines, voters simply punch their chosen candidate’s numeric code into the machine’s keypad. The candidate’s picture then appears on the screen and the voter is asked to confirm their vote. Before electronic voting, Taquaritinga’s citizens voted on paper ballots signed by the local judge and president of the voting commission. The votes were collected and counted by a voting commission comprised of the local judge and voting officials approved by both parties. This led to human error—if a barely literate person drew an “x” between two candidates’ names, the voting commission had to interpret that voter’s intention. There were also instances of fraud.

“There were instances where the canvas and leather urns arrived with ballots already inside,” said Judge Santos Murilo. With the electronic urnas, this kind of fraud is more difficult to achieve. Each citizen has a voting identification number, called a Titulo de Eleitor. Voters present poll workers with their federal voting number and a photo ID. Poll workers input the voting number into the polling place’s computer system, which recognizes the voter from a national database. Only then is the voter is allowed to vote on the electronic machine. This is not only a way to check a voter’s identity, but also to make sure they only vote once. Ten minutes after the last citizen’s vote is registered with an electronic urna, the results for that particular machine are calculated and the machine prints a paper tally of votes. Copies of the tallies are posted on the polling place door, given to each candidate, and to the town’s judge, who is the official representative of the federal Tribunal Eleitoral. Voting data is also stored in an encrypted hard drive in the voting machine. This hard drive is only readable on computers hooked into the federal elections system database.

At the end of Election Day, the voting machine hard drives are placed in a car from the federal elections bureau and taken to the local courthouse. Candidates, poll workers, federal officials, and voters accompany the car in an informal parade to the courthouse. There, everyone will hear the official tally of all of the machines.

“Today, we [judges] that lead the Federal Elections Justice System have no doubt of the results of what is in the electronic voting machine,” said judge Santos Murilo in 2004. “It represents what the voter chose. What needs perfecting now is the phase before the act of voting—the campaign.”

In order to reach voters in the 2004 mayoral election, Coelho and Silva hired cars with loudspeakers strapped to their roofs. The vehicles circled the city limits from 8 AM to 10 PM each day (this time frame is mandated by federal law) playing campaign songs. On weekends, both campaigns organized rallies where the candidates on the blue and red tickets explained their platforms. The speeches were followed by music and dancing. Candidates had to hire the bands and provide transportation for rural supporters to go to and from the rallies. In 2004, the least expensive and most effective campaign method was personal contact. Silva and Coelho made regular visits to voters’ homes and attended community events. Both men attended Catholic mass, sitting on opposite sides of the church. And when a prominent local merchant died half-way through the campaign season, both candidates appeared at the funeral wearing freshly-ironed shirts, Silva’s blue, Coelho’s red.

There is another aspect to campaigning, one that existed long before the electronic urnas, and still exists despite them. “The politics of favors is a politics of exchange, or bartering,” said 2004 mayoral candidate Janio Arruda da Silva. “A favor is done in exchange for a vote. This still exists.” (When we talked about this aspect of the campaign, both candidates began to use vague language, without specific names or personal pronouns.) “For example,” da Silva continued, “someone asks the candidate for…to give them an operation for cataracts. The candidate arranges this surgery in a public hospital. And the person who received the surgery…they feel pressured to give their vote in return. For me, it is more practical to hire a doctor who can operate on many citizens, for the common good.”

One 2004 voter, who did not want to be named, said a local candidate gave her gas money to help her take her autistic son get to the doctor in Caruaru, a large city 57 km away. A female city council candidate allowed one voter to live in her mother’s house in Recife, the state’s capital, while the voter underwent thyroid treatments. Individual favors seem to be a part of the political process in Brazil. “Its part of the culture,” said Antônio de Padua, the president of Taquaritinga’s PFL party. “It happens everywhere.”

With electronic urnas, candidates have no guarantees that their favors will win them votes. Voters may receive personal favors from both parties, and then enter whichever candidate’s numeric code they choose at the polls. Brazil has alternated between military dictatorships and democracy since the fall of the imperial monarchy in 1889, and has tried to combat election fraud through out its electoral history, sometimes successfully, sometimes not. Fifty years ago, in rural voting districts like Colonel Chico’s, voters weren’t given a choice. People did not matter but their ballots did. Today, things are different. While the culture of personal favors is not ideal or just, it illustrates a marked shift in the role of the voter in Brazilian elections. Voters must be courted now, and given tangible evidence of a candidate’s intentions before they head to the polling place. It’s not ideal, but it is an evolution.

Baby rats are cuter than grown ones.

By , September 28, 2010

I haven’t posted in nearly 2 months. I’ve been a horrendous blogger. (There are many excuses for this: I was traveling, working, and then my blog’s database crashed and I had to wade into weird and stressful programming jargon like MYSQL and PHP to fix it. But excuses are lame and the truth is, I still feel strange blogging. Many days, I’m not quite sure what to post, or who is interested.) In an effort to redeem myself, here is a picture of a baby rat.

We have country rats here. (They are cleaner and more naive than city rats.) They make nests in roof tiles and try to gnaw into our feed bins. This particular rat’s nest was in a roll of plastic screening in our storage house. The rats scattered. Our dogs went crazy. Oscar ate this blind baby rat shortly after we took its picture. We scolded him, but he wouldn’t cough it up. So the rat is now immortalized on the web.

Millipede Love

By , July 29, 2010

For adult eyes only.

Article in Real Simple Magazine’s August 2010 Issue / Matéria Sobre a Fazenda na Revista Americana “Real Simple”

By , July 13, 2010

I recently wrote a feature essay for Real Simple magazine. The essay, and some lovely farm photos by Frederic Lagrange are in the August 2010 issue.

Eu escrevi recentemente uma matéria para a revista americana Real Simple. A matéria, com belas fotos do fotógrafo Frederic Lagrange já está nas bancas dos EUA!

Our Farm’s New Logos! / As Novas Logomarcas da Nossa Fazenda!

By , July 12, 2010

Actually, it is three logos; one for each of our product lines. We will use one for our coffee products, one for pork products, and one for our honey. Yaguara means “jaguar” in Tupi-Guarani, the language of the indigenous people who lived on our farm centuries ago. Since our farm is called “Valley of the Jaguar,” in honor of the big cats that roamed here only a hundred years ago, we liked the name Yaguara.

Português

    Yaguara significa “Onça” em Tupi-Guarani. Por isso, é o nome que nos selecionamos para nossa linha de produtos ecológicos. Séculos atrás, onças percorriam este vale. Tribos indígenas instalaram-se nesta várzea por causa das suas terras férteis e seus nascentes de água doce. Hoje, o objetivo da Fazenda Várzea da Onça é de produzir café de qualidade e proteger o ecossistema que nos sustenta. Por praticar agricultura sustantável, a fazenda Várzea da Onça proteje não só a qualidade do nosso café como também a qualidade da vida que o envolve. Várzea da Onça é um refúgio para as mais diversas espécies de árvores e plantas nativas, orquídeas, pássaros, e anfíbios. Por preservar a natureza, a terra, e os nossos recursos, estamos promovendo sustentabilidade ambiental e ecológica.

Embrace the Sausage

By , June 19, 2010

Embrace the sausage. This is what Michael Ruhlman and Brian Polcyn say in their curing, salting, smoking, and sausage-making bible, Charcuterie.

A few months ago we hosted a sausage-making workshop organized by SENNAR, an education program sponsored by the Brazilian government. Everyone participated—me, James, my sister Tatiana, all of our employees, and Oscar. (He’s a chef in a dog’s body.) Before moving to the farm, James and I also took a great sausage-making class at Chicago’s Kendall College.

Unruly class member

Class disciplinarian

All you need to make sausage at home is an electric mixer with a meat grinder attachment (most Kitchen-Aid’s have this), some hog casings, and tool to stuff or encase the sausage. Actually, you don’t even have to encase the sausage; you can simply mold the ground sausage meat into patties or fry it in a pan to add to pizza and pastas.

Hog casings are pig’s intestines that have been washed and treated. The membrane encasing sausage meat is intestine, or a synthetic collagen made to resemble intestine. You can buy real or synthetic casings at The Sausage Maker, an amazing online store for all of your sausage needs. (My former catalog of choice used to be Anthropologie. Now I spend my free time drooling over curing salts and sausage prickers.)

Back to casings—we get ours from our pigs, which we kill and butcher on our property. First, we wash the intestines thoroughly with water, then turn them inside out with a bamboo rod and wash them again. After about seven to ten washes, we soak the intestines in water and limejuice. Why all of this fastidious washing? Because the intestines run from the stomach to the anus and are filled with digested materials on their way out of our bodies. (In other words, intestines are filled with poop.)

Then we take a small plastic spatula with rounded edges and scrape the cleaned intestines. We learned this scraping technique at our SENNAR workshop. It’s miraculous! Basically, the plastic spatula scrapes away the intestines’ lining, making them translucent and as thin as rubber bands. After scraping, we wash them again, inside and out. Now they are ready to use for sausage. I am amazed by how fine and light yet incredibly strong casings are. Their strength allows casings to hold in all of a sausage’s delicious fattiness, and gives the eater that amazing snap when biting into a sausage.

In homage to our workshop, here’s a great recipe for fresh Italian sausage. What is a “fresh” sausage? It’s one that is cooked and eaten hot. It is not cured or smoked, and has no curing salts in its ingredients.

Fresh Italian sausage
4 lbs lean pork butt, cubed. (The butt is not the pig’s rear end but its shoulder. The shoulder has lots of nice marbling, which is great for sausage.)
1 lb pork fat, cubed
5 tsp coarse Kosher salt
5 tsp fresh black pepper coarsely ground
2 cloves garlic, finely minced
2.5 tsp fennel seed (Yum. This adds such dimension to the sausage)
1 tsp anise seed
Crushed red pepper flakes to taste
Medium hog casings, if making links.

First, it is imperative to KEEP YOUR MEAT COLD during the entire sausage-making process. Sausage that gets too warm will “break,” meaning the fat and protein will separate from each other when cooked, and you’ll get a mealy or crumbly texture to your cooked sausage. You want a smooth but firm texture. You want your sausage to glide not crumble! So I recommend cutting up the cubes of meat and fat, freezing it, then defrosting it just a little bit. You can put it through your grinder nearly frozen, and it comes out much better than at room temperature.

First, mix the spices together in a bowl. In your meat grinder, grind the chunks of nearly frozen meat and fat together using a coarse grinding disk.

Use your mixer (with either the palette or bread kneading attachment—not the whisk) to mix the ground meat and the spices. Ideally, this mixture should become a sticky ball, where the fats, meat, and seasonings make a “primary bind” as the charcuterie boys call it. The more you knead your meat mixture, the more the meat’s protein (called myosin) develops, and the stickier it becomes.

OK, so you have your perfect sticky ball of meat. Take a little, golf ball sized round, make a patty, and fry it on the stove. Eat it. Enjoy it. Have some wine. This is your taste test, to make sure your seasoning is on point. Before you stuff a sausage, it’s best to test it. This way, you can add more seasoning (or more meat if it’s too salty) before you go through the trouble of stuffing.

Stuffing:
The same mixer you used to grind the meat also comes with a plastic stuffer attachment. Wet your casings, slide them on to the nozzle, then turn on your machine and stuff. When your casings are filled, twist them or tie them into links. Then prick these links with a needle, knife tip, or sausage pricker to get out air pockets.

Listen, I’m not going to lie: stuffing is hard. The casings are slippery. The meat squirts out in uneven clumps. It takes practice. My first links alternated between fat little maki rolls and weirdly pencil-like things. Oh, well. They all tasted good.

Refrigerate your fresh sausage and use it within 3 days. Or, as our Kendall College teacher said, immediately if you are using store-ground meat. (It is not as sanitary as grinding your own.) Or you can wrap sausages individually and freeze.

Here’s an inspirational little quote, to get you excited about your sticky balls:
“Sausage involves craftsmanship in the kitchen, care from the cook, and devotion from the eater. There may be no finer package of protein, fat, and seasonings than that which resides within the transparent but resilient hog casing—and none more humble.”
–Charcuterie by Michael Ruhlman and Brian Polcyn.

Saramago Passes/ Perdemos Saramago.

By , June 19, 2010

“Just as definitive death is the ultimate fruit of the will to forget, so the will to remember will perpetuate our lives.”

José Saramago passed away yesterday, according to a post on his foundation’s website.

Here’s the first portion of an autobiography written when Saramago received the Nobel Prize in 1998:
“I was born in a family of landless peasants, in Azinhaga, a small village in the province of Ribatejo, on the right bank of the Almonda River, around a hundred kilometres north-east of Lisbon. My parents were José de Sousa and Maria da Piedade. José de Sousa would have been my own name had not the Registrar, on his own inititiave added the nickname by which my father’s family was known in the village: Saramago. I should add that saramago is a wild herbaceous plant, whose leaves in those times served at need as nourishment for the poor. Not until the age of seven, when I had to present an identification document at primary school, was it realised that my full name was José de Sousa Saramago…”

O escritor José Saramago morreu na sexta-feira, aos 87 anos. A escritora Nélida Piñon definiu como “imortal” e “eterno” o escritor português. Saramago sempre viverá nos seus livros.

The Coffee is turning./ O Café está amadurecendo.

By , June 13, 2010

It is June and the coffee cherries are beginning to ripen. This is early for us–usually the cherries ripen in early August–so the coffee harvest will begin this week. We have six people coming to pick the ripe coffee cherries tomorrow. Hopefully we will have more people helping us with the harvest next week.

É Junho, e os grãos de café estão começando a amadurecer. Geralmente as cerejas amadurecem no início de agosto. Mas em 2010, a colheita do café vai começar esta semana. Temos seis pessoas que vêm para catar o café maduro amanhã. Esperamos ter mais pessoas nos ajudando com a colheita na próxima semana.

And the World Cup winner is…

By , June 11, 2010

Wired UK printed this spiffy diagram of an algorithm predicting who will win the World Cup. I hope it’s true!

Sometimes a dog’s love…

By , June 11, 2010

Is the only thing that helps me through a tough day.
This is Oscar receiving his daily massage from Olga, his Russian masseuse.

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