Our Farm
Várzea da Onça (pronounced Var-zay-ah dah On-sa) a family-owned shade coffee farm located in Pernambuco, Brazil. Pernambuco has a rich tradition of growing high quality coffee—in the 1700’s, it was one of the first Brazilian territories planted with the original Ethiopian variety of Arabica typica.
In 1727, a Brazilian army captain named Francisco de Mello Palheta traveled to French Guiana and returned with the first coffee seedlings planted in Brazil. At that time, coffee was a precious resource. The French closely guarded their crop—the export of coffee cuttings and seeds was strictly prohibited. Captain Palheta charmed the French governor’s wife and, on his departure from Guiana, she presented him a bouquet. Hidden in the flowers were cuttings of a coffee plant. These cuttings were first planted in the northern state of Pará, but the climate was too humid for coffee to thrive. Cultivation quickly spread to Brazil’s northeastern states, including Pernambuco. It was only later that coffee growing extended further south.
“Pernambuco” comes from the Tupi indian name “Paranã-Puca” which means “where the ocean the hits the rocks,” for the long line of reefs that border the state’s coast. Later, the name Pernambuco became associated with the Pau Brasil tree, a hardwood coveted in Europe for the red dye extracted from its bark and the violin wood produced from its trunk. Pernambuco was home to a vast number of Pau Brasil and other hardwoods that made up the Atlantic Rain Forest. As Europe’s craving for sugar grew, much of Brazil’s Atlantic Forest was cut down to make room for cane plantations. Although sugarcane did not thrive in the Atlantic Forest’s shade, Arabica typica coffee did. Along Pernambuco’s Boborema mountain range, conditions were ideal for the Arabica coffee species: shade, elevations of 1000-2000 meters, frequent rains, and cool nighttime temperatures.
The Várzea da Onça farm is located in the Borborema mountains. Várzea da Onça means “valley of the panther” Centuries ago, wild cats roamed this valley. Indigenous tribes settled here because of the valley’s fertile soils and fresh water springs. Today, Várzea da Onça’s goal is to deliver quality coffee while protecting the ecosystem surrounding our Arabica-typica coffee trees. Our practices include terracing, organic composting, honeybee propagation, and reforestation of endangered indigenous hardwoods including Pau-Brasil. Our coffee cherries are handpicked at maturity, processed using the semi-washed method, and dried on covered terraces. When dry, they are mechanically sorted by size to produce an even roast.
In 1727, coffee was a treasure smuggled into Brazil. At Várzea da Onça, we believe quality coffee is still a treasure—one that should be cultivated and shared.
Outstanding! Congratulations for the site, the farm, and the initiative. I’m originally from Fortaleza, but work, and travel
have taken me to some far places. I am looking forward towards
an opportunity which will allow me to embark in the same kind of “adventure”; just like you both did. Parabens!